What is it that draws me to the beach? There are physical things such as the beautiful views and the rolling waves of the sea or gentle ripples lapping at the shore but it’s so much more than that for me.
“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever” – Jacques Cousteau.
There is nothing grandiose about our seafront in Bexhill but it is classy in its simplicity. A mixture of modern, Edwardian and Victorian architecture with fascinating history and nostalgia. The promenade itself has many landmarks, the most famous and notable being the De La Warr Pavilion which is claimed to be the first major Modernist public building in Britain due to its concrete and steel construction. The building has grade I listed status and these days attracts a lot of interest to art and music enthusiasts.
Directly behind the De La Warr Pavilion is the King George V Colonnade which was built in 1911 to commemorate the coronation of King George V and designed to offer a sheltered venue for beachside concerts and amusements. The colonnade is a discernible part of Bexhill’s seafront and looks particularly stunning at both sunset and sunrise. You can stand at the top within the turret sections and admire the glorious views. I never tire of seeing the iconic classical domes standing tall and proud creating a significant landmark of the skyline.
On the West Promenade stands the Bexhill Clock Tower which was built to mark the coronation of King Edward VII. Rather less historic but nevertheless renowned is the Sovereign Light Cafe, made famous by the band ‘Keane’ in their 2012 single, inspired by their childhood growing up in the local area. The cafe has uninterrupted views out to sea to the Royal Sovereign Lighthouse, a decommissioned lighthouse marking the Royal Sovereign shoal, a sandbank 6.8 miles offshore from Eastbourne. On clear days it is possible to see the lighthouse with the naked eye.
There is also quite a bit of shipping activity on the horizon visible from Bexhill beach, ranging from container ships to cruise liners so it’s good to have a pair of binoculars to hand if you’re intrigued by what you can see sailing past in the distance!
Apart from a handful of what I call ‘moaners’ and ‘killjoys’ (mostly venting online) there is a very spirited community in Bexhill! Bexhill residents love an ‘event’ and they are plentiful. Many take place on the Dela Warr lawns, such as big screens for significant sporting events and royal occasions. There is an annual Festival of the Sea where you can sample and buy seafood and there are angling competitions and a mermaid pageant! There has also been a 60s Revolution, a medieval pageant and vintage fayres.
Live music can be heard regularly, ranging from folk bands, well known artists as well as locally-renowned bands and solo performers in various locations along the seafront. The Dela Warr Pavilion is the most notable venue, hosting ‘beach-side’ festivals such as the annual ‘Bexfest’ and Jo Whiley’s 90s Anthems. If you’re not worried about being in the thick of it all, you can just listen from outside the venue on the nearby beach or lawns.
April 2023 saw the opening of the newly restored bandstand on the east parade. Originally built as a bandstand in 1895 it was converted into a seaside shelter in 1906. In 2021 Rother District Council approved plans to lease the grade II listed shelter to Bexhill Heritage who assisted in the restoration work and in the long term plans to bring the shelter back to its original use as a bandstand. The restoration aimed to use the same design and colour scheme as when the building was originally built in 1895 and is now officially known as ‘Bexhill Coronation Bandstand’. There is now regular live music from the bandstand and at other times the public can just enjoy sitting inside with a cuppa!
Aside from the runners and cyclists, the seafront seems to be a popular place to exercise, whether it’s a group doing yoga on the beach or a boot camp on the lawns. The one I love to see though is the silent disco group! They are usually quite a big group, predominantly ladies, who basically just dance around freely to the music in their headphones and seem to be living their best life! It’s a joy to witness!
Forget dancing like no one is watching. Dance like a toddler. They don’t even care if there’s music!
With its relatively unspoilt seafront, it is easy to imagine the past. Despite the loss of a few old buildings there is still an abundance of beautiful architecture, particularly on the east side of the seafront. One of the residential properties, situated in a row of Grade II listed Queen Anne style terraced houses on De La Warr Parade, has been used for filming locations on more than one occasion, most notably for the Kiera Knightly and Carey Mulligan film ‘Never Let Me Go’. More recently scenes were also filmed at a beach hut on the same stretch of the seafront and also inside the De La Warr Pavilion for the 2018 mini series of Agatha Christie’s ‘The ABC Murders’ starring John Malkovich as Hercule Poirot.
In complete contrast, at the opposite end of the seafront on West Parade are six blocks of 29 seafront apartments all named after West Indian Islands – St Lucia, St Thomas, St Kitts, Grenada, Tobago and Monserrat. They were built between 1970 and 1980. A photo of two of the blocks of flats was used for the album cover of Keane’s 2012 album ‘Strangelands’ as mentioned previously.
On occasion you might see members of the Bexhill Classic Bicycle Group riding along the promenade. They are a historical activity group for Classic, Veteran and Vintage cycle owners. Occasionally they also wear vintage clothing for events ‘in the spirit of Edwardian nostalgia’. So it’s not too unusual to spot a rider on a ‘Penny Farthing’ weaving his way through the walkers in his top hat and tails!
“When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking” – Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
Both sailing and rowing are high on the agenda of sea activities in Bexhill. Many join the Rowing Club, in particular, at a relatively young age and train for regattas. Rowing crews in training are a regular sight and when the sailing yachts are out to sea ‘en masse’ it is truly picturesque.
There has been an ongoing debate about the meaning of ‘Bexhill’. In modern times the ‘Bex’ was said to mean ‘windy’ but originally was known as ‘happy’. The second part ‘hill’ not being a physical reference but actually meaning ‘great’. So the original meaning of the name was ‘happiness’! Who knew eh? Anyway, my reason for mentioning this is that Bexhill is indeed a very windy place! It is rare to have no breeze at all but it is a comfort to have when it is a scorcher of a day! This makes it very popular with wind-related water sports. Windsurfers and kite surfers spend hours perfecting their skills and I personally could ‘waste’ hours watching them. The speeds they get up to are really impressive and they are seemingly fearless of the conditions on exceptionally gusty days. Traditional kites are also popular on the beach, controlled by both adults and children alike!
Nowadays paddle boarding and kayaking seem to be very popular leisure activities and the fact that there are inflatable versions of these available which can be folded up to the size of a rucksack makes them far more practical for people to transport. On a calm day when the sea resembles a millpond there will be a lot of people out on their boards. Sometimes you might catch a couple of jet skiers racing along the coast or you might spot a luxurious motor yacht. I also recently saw a lifeboat heading east and it’s the only time I’ve ever actually seen one in action from a Bexhill beach.
“Sorry I couldn’t make it, I had a board meeting…..”
Like any seaside resort, fishing is enjoyed on the beaches. When the tide is out you might see fishermen with buckets collecting lugworms for bait from the sand. During a high tide anglers will position themselves close to the shoreline, sometimes pitching a small tent. With Hastings just a few miles east of Bexhill, fishing trawlers can be regularly spotted. A major industry in Hastings, the fishing fleet remains Europe’s largest beach-launched fishing fleet.
“Fishing is much more than fish. It is the great occasion when we may return to the fine simplicity of our forefathers. ” ― Herbert Hoover (former US president).
From the sea to the sky – not only is Bexhill on the flight path to Gatwick, there is a lot of activity in the skies over the town. Helicopters are the most frequent flyers – Air Sea Rescue, Police and Air Ambulances are commonplace. During the summer months you can often spot military planes making their way to or from air displays. The Red Arrows usually fly over to Eastbourne in August for their annual display at ‘Airbourne’. Small leisure planes fly over regularly and there is one man who likes to show off his hand gliding skills to beachgoers by gliding close to the shoreline.
The majority of the beaches along the East Sussex coastline are pebble and shingle beaches. However, at low tide there are long stretches of sand and little water channels so perfect for little ones (or maybe bigger ones!) to build their sandcastles. As a child I can remember running all the way across the pebbles to get into to the sea but you wouldn’t catch me doing that nowadays! The children do seem to be quite immune to the discomfort though. I guess it’s a weight thing, lightweight little children barely feeling the ground beneath them! There are advantages to a pebbly beach though, no sand in your eyes, hair, sandwiches….! If you’ve ever bitten into food that contains gritty bits of sand you’ll know it’s not pleasant!
Low tides also present rock pools which can be a lot of fun! When our children and their friends were small they used to take their fishing nets down to the best ones and come back with tons of shrimps! Once or twice we cooked them in a frying pan or on a barbecue and they ate them! With an inherent level of salt they didn’t need any extra flavouring! Such a small thing but it always gave them a great deal of pleasure and excitement. Crabs are also plentiful, dead or alive, and children are thrilled (or sometimes petrified!) when they discover them. A couple of years ago my eldest son found one that was the size of his torso! Definitely the largest one we have ever encountered.
“Salt Is Born Of The Purest Parents: The Sun And The Sea” – Pythagoras (Greek Mathematician and Philosopher).
Cold water swimming has been a regular activity for some for many years but its popularity has revved up considerably in the last few years. Bexhill is no exception and the New Years Day dip in the sea for those who are brave enough to dare (or maybe just a bit crazy….) has attracted curious onlookers for years. Nowadays there are a lot of groups, formal and informal, of varying ages, who practice this invigorating (according to the participants) past-time on a regular basis. I have a few friends who have been bitten by the bug and who are all passionate about the physical and mental health benefits – increased metabolism, better circulation, reduction of stress and enhanced mood, better sleep and boosted immune system. The closest I’ve got to this was having cold showers in the morning after watching ‘Freeze the Fear with Wim Hof’! Maybe one day…..
You’re only one swim away from a good mood.
Sounds and smells are another great delight of beach life, mainly when it involves food! Seemingly everything smells and tastes better in the open air – ice cream, fish and chips, barbecues, bacon sizzling on a camping stove. Even a cup of tea with a slice of cake at the beach is divine! Add to that the delightful sounds of people enjoying themselves in the sunshine, children laughing and squealing, the rhythmic rolling of the waves mixed with the calm air of peace and tranquility, what’s not to love?
“Smell is the sense of memory and desire” – Jean-Jaques Rousseau (Philosopher, writer and composer).
Now, seagulls….they are both loved and hated! I can’t lie, I am a fan! Yes they are scavengers and food thieves but they are essentially hunters and survivors. Most gulls are ground-nesting carnivores which take live food or scavenge opportunistically. This is known as Kleptoparasitism. If you feed them, they will hang around. Why wouldn’t they? Live food often includes crustaceans, molluscs, fish and small birds. I love to watch them dropping shells of clams and mussels onto hard surfaces, one of their methods of obtaining prey. Seagulls are very intelligent birds and demonstrate this with some of their cunning behaviours, such as stamping their feet in a group to imitate rainfall and trick earthworms to come to the surface. I do regular seafront walks with friends and often in the mornings seagulls will be ‘sitting’ together on the pebbles in large groups on the beach. Apparently big wide open spaces allow the seagulls to group up out in the open in such a way that gives them a line of sight on both potential food sources and potential predators.
Seagulls can actually help the environment as they also eat insects. The fact that they consume insects keeps the insect population in check making them a natural pest control for farmers and gardeners.
However, I actually love their company and am generally unbothered by them. They are fascinating to watch, especially when they have their fledglings with them who follow them round begging for attention! They have a lot of character and are both tame and brazen but they have been around for over 30 millions years. They are an integral part of beach life and it was their home long before humans discovered the recreational benefits of the salty sea air and stunning views.
Today I will be happier than a seagull with a stolen chip!
I may or may not have convinced anyone to change their minds that these birds are not just ‘pests’ or ‘vermin’ but I will leave you with this thought…..
“The seagull is a symbol of healing, wisdom and tranquility. The belief that the seagull is a messenger from the creator has been traced back to Ancient Greece. In Native American symbolism, the seagull represents peace and prosperity, as well as emotional balance and strength in numbers.” – learnbirdwatching.com
The other species of bird seen frequently on our beaches are turnstones. Turnstones are wading birds that flit around rocky shores and gravelly beaches. The cutest sight is when they form a group and waddle across the promenade from the beach, sometimes stopping the pedestrian traffic!
Occasionally you get to see some less likely and random birds either flying over or just bobbing about in the sea. There is a park just one street away from the beach that has a small lake. I’ve seen ducks floating about and once I even spotted a swan on the sea! You might also see flying geese or a heron sitting proudly on the pole that marks the sewage pipe.
I am continually intrigued by the abundance of beautiful, perfectly intact shells on Bexhill beach. The most frequent finds are the Baltic tellin (small saltwater clam), common and slipper limpet, common cockle, winkle, oyster, mussel and whelk shells. I have quite a collection in my beach hut as children often collect them and gift them to me!
One last thing which is personal to me about the beach is that almost every time I am at my beach hut I am visited by a bumble bee. To my knowledge, bumble bees are generally not a frequent sight on our beaches. Being my ‘happy place’ I am most at peace when spending time there. My mum was allocated the hut space a few years after she passed away and we were very surprised when my dad was contacted about one becoming available. We like to think that the bumble bee is a sign from my mum! It often rests on us – arms, legs, hands – then flies off again. They are such beautiful creatures and very tame if you don’t overreact to them. Whatever the reality, it brings us all, but especially me, great comfort. Even our friends and family sometimes exclaim “Here comes Sally!” if we get a visit while they are there! I love to think my beloved mum is watching over us…..
Angels don’t have to speak to be heard, be visible to be seen or be present to be felt. Believe in Angels and they will always be near.